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14-Aug-2017 15:22

Turns out Michoacán isn’t called Mexico’s Heartland for nothing.Mexico’s independence from Spain owes some of its momentum to a local bishop’s notion of human rights.On my most recent visit I saw evidence of a Patzcuaro revival--buildings being remodeled, new shops and restaurants moving in, folk art from farther away destinations like Chiapas, and even a few more visitors, though I think I only saw about 4 or 5 other Americans.Capula was having its annual Festival of Santiago and I just happened to be there the day of the "Concurso" or the Fonart Sponsored Competition.Apparently the local government had not paid the water bill and the water was turned off.So citizen protesters blocked all entrance and exit roads to Patzcuaro (only until 3pm said our taxi driver because people get hungry and go home to eat) and we got caught in that snarl for a little while.

For those of you considering a trip to Patzcuaro, I've stayed three times at Hotel Casa Encantada and highly recommend the location, the food, the rooms and the staff (hi Luis! And they offer discounts during the low season of summer. One other slightly harrowing adventure was having to drive all over Patzcuaro to find an exit road that was not blocked by residents whose water had been turned off!

So my friend and I returned and rang the doorbell which said, "Ring doorbell to see Mexican folk art." An older woman came to the gated entrance and asked what we wanted.

I explained that I'd seen the sign and did she have "artes michoacanas" for sale? Fortunately, we'd taken an earlier, more relaxing, trip that day to the Casa de Artesanias, where there were many clay pineapples from Sante Fe Laguna.

government employees are prohibited from traveling by land in Michoacán except on federal toll road 15D during daylight hours.

Armed members of some self-defense groups maintain roadblocks and, , are suspicious of outsiders and should be considered volatile and unpredictable.

For those of you considering a trip to Patzcuaro, I've stayed three times at Hotel Casa Encantada and highly recommend the location, the food, the rooms and the staff (hi Luis! And they offer discounts during the low season of summer. One other slightly harrowing adventure was having to drive all over Patzcuaro to find an exit road that was not blocked by residents whose water had been turned off!

So my friend and I returned and rang the doorbell which said, "Ring doorbell to see Mexican folk art." An older woman came to the gated entrance and asked what we wanted.

I explained that I'd seen the sign and did she have "artes michoacanas" for sale? Fortunately, we'd taken an earlier, more relaxing, trip that day to the Casa de Artesanias, where there were many clay pineapples from Sante Fe Laguna.

government employees are prohibited from traveling by land in Michoacán except on federal toll road 15D during daylight hours.

Armed members of some self-defense groups maintain roadblocks and, , are suspicious of outsiders and should be considered volatile and unpredictable.

But I have found it to be true that no one I've encountered has been overtly dangerous.